Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 14

Trifari 1940s Philippe 4PieceParure CrystalFloraMotif GoldNecklaceEarringsBrooch

About the Item

In the late 1940s, Trifari's French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had earlier created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, designed this flora-motif crystal-set yellow-gold-plated parure. The rare "patent pending" four-piece set without a post-1955 copyright symbol includes a serpentine-link necklace with sliding pendant, plus complimentary brooch and pair of French-clip earrings. With high-end jewelry crafting experience, Philippe was the first to introduce luxurious invisible settings to costume jewelry, which made his selection of high-quality crystals appear like some of the most expensive gems such as diamonds. Like this parure, such "invisibly-set diamante" pieces are among the most collectible and thus highest priced. The large pendant features six marquise rhinestones in a sinuous leaf shape accented by four single-cut round crystals for more sparkle around the reflective twisting stem-like frame. The pendant measures nearly 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide, while the diameter of its choker chain when fastened is 5 inches. The stylized-leaf earrings each showcase three smaller marquise crystals set within a twisted heart-shape frame with three baguettes on its upright stem. Each earring measures 1.25-inches long by 0.75-inch wide. The swirled-frame brooch depicts a stylized orchid with marquises as flowers and rose-cut crystals as buds, along with five baguettes on two curved leaves emerging from the twisted stem. It measures 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide. The brooch fastens with a safety-clasp pin on the back, where a cartouche is stamped with the crown-symbol over the capital-letter text "Trifari Pat.Pend.". The necklace fastens with a tiny fold-over clasp stamped on the bottom with the same text. The exterior of each earring clip is engraved with a crown-symbol over the brand name, while the interior is stamped "Pat.Pend.". After the crown was added above the "T" as the brand signature in the early 1940s, it could always be found during Philippe's tenure on at least one piece in a parure that had enough space to discretely include it. This symbol pays homage to one of Philippe's most popular designs since he joined Trifari in 1930--a crown-shaped brooch.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Gold,Gold Plate,Yellow Gold
  • Stone:
    Crystal,Diamond
  • Stone Cut:
    Mixed Cut
  • Dimensions:
    Diameter: 5 in (127 mm)Length: 16 in (406.4 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 3
  • Style:
    Art Deco
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    Mid-20th Century
  • Date of Manufacture:
    late 1940s
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244219098582
More From This SellerView All
  • Antique Amuletic DozenRockCrystals CagedRing MedievalStyle GiltBronze Pendant
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This antique amuletic bronze framed pendant cages a dozen 7mm-diameter single-cut rock crystals that each feature a table-cut decagon crown, deep pavilion, 21 facets and uncut girdle, while the culets range from off-center to blunted. They are tightly set within four linked rings to overlap at the same angle in a sparkling single row. Seeming to retain a little of its original yellow-gold gilding on just the interior, the frame that surrounds each of the four sections of three crystals enables them to reflect pale-yellow-and-lime light when the pendant is viewed from certain angles. Suggesting French heritage, the Medieval Frankish culture in northern France made jewelry in similar segmented or openwork shapes of wheels or whorls, which were worn as gem-decorated disk-shaped brooches or gold-caged rock...
    Category

    Antique 18th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gilt Metal, Bronze, Copper

  • 16thCentury Renaissance SilverRepousse Romantic Engagement Pendant Or HatBadge
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This early-16th-Century Renaissance period silver-repousse round medallion pendant features a romantic encounter in a rural landscape between a man and smiling woman wearing European-nobility fashion, including a men's feathered hat, tights and sword. A silversmith was commissioned by this unknown man to make the pendant as a hat badge to promote his affectionate nature, which is conveyed by the welcomed gestures between the adult couple, who stand cheek-to-cheek and hand-in-hand. As there is a church in the distant landscape, this may have been his wedding-engagement announcement. It is worth noting that romantic love via marriage was a rarity before the 18th Century. The tragic romantic Italian legend of Romeo and Juliet was first translated into English for publication in 1562--several decades before Shakespeare turned it into a famous play about a deadly consequence of separating lovers. The pendant medallion is framed with a filigree-like inward-curving bezel and a flat metal backplate, while its bail enables it to be pinned as a brooch or strung on a necklace. A perfect engagement or wedding gift for a man or woman who loves antique...
    Category

    Antique 16th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Silver, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1937-40 ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes HarlequinDuck GlazedCeramic Brooch
    By Elsa Schiaparelli
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade in Paris, while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce, this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with turquoise and a bit of black glaze. Significantly, the brooch-pin trombone clasp, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's fashion shows themed "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domestic white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, the fashion designer had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet. Another relevant Met acquisition of a Schiaparelli couture...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches

    Materials

    Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1930s CocoChanel LinaBaretti SatinBlackCamellias PaveCrystals Gold Set
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This rare signed couture set of pave-crystal and gold-plated brooch and earrings from the Art Deco period is marked in the manner of one-off costume jewelry commissioned...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Brooches

    Materials

    Crystal, Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

  • Couture CocoChanel Byzantine ThePurpleHeart PearlAmethystQuartz GoldMedallion
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Brooches

    Materials

    Amethyst, Pearl, Quartz, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

  • Antique Art&Crafts FiligreeGoldFill ScrollingTwisted DanglingHearts Shell Brooch
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Epitomizing the organic subjects and hand-craftsmanship spanning the Arts-&-Crafts to Art-Nouveau movements that were led in The United States by Louis Comfort Tiffany, this gifted o...
    Category

    Antique Late 19th Century American Arts and Crafts Brooches

    Materials

    Chalcedony, Coral, Turquoise, Gold-filled

You May Also Like
  • 1970s Gold Pearl and Diamond Freeform Pendant Brooch
    By Arthur King
    Located in Cincinnati, OH
    Brutalist 70s Pendant/brooch in the manner of Arthur King. The large 3 1/4 x 2" 14k tendril-like gold work freeform pendant/brooch with four freshwate...
    Category

    Vintage 1970s American Modernist Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold

  • Modernist Gold Brutalist Pendant, C 1960
    Located in Cincinnati, OH
    Gold Modernist pendant necklace. The 2" x 2" 14K squircular shaped , heavily textured yellow gold pendant with a hinged bale and pin clasp. Inspired by nature of some form, this pendant could relate to the texture of the moon, a close-up of foliage or perhaps the artists rendition of his own inner feelings. Many studio jewelers of the 60's and early 70's were influenced by not only nature, but grew out of a period of "Abstract Expressionism" that seemed to inform the bold jewelry...
    Category

    Vintage 1960s American Modernist Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Gold, 14k Gold

  • Antique Edwardian Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Brooch/Pendant, GIA Certified
    Located in Southport, CT
    This amazing antique Edwardian era brooch (and pendant) contains a center round faceted, cornflower blue color natural sapphire from Sri Lanka, approximately 0.94 CTS and bezel set. ...
    Category

    Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Sapphire, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

  • 18k Gold Multi Color Sapphire and Diamond Bird of Paradise Brooch and Pendant
    Located in Southport, CT
    18k white gold brooch. This magnificent brooch is a bird of paradise motif, prong set with a chest of round faceted yellow sapphires that lead into the tail (approximately 1.98 TCW),...
    Category

    20th Century Unknown Brooches

    Materials

    Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Garnet, White D...

  • Alex Soldier Citrine Spinel Sterling Silver Gold Brooch Pendant Headpiece
    By Alex Soldier
    Located in New York, NY
    Luxuriant and festive attire of Anemone Coronaria is a fine decoration of any garden with every petal having its own unique ornament, like life lines of the human palm. And each grac...
    Category

    2010s American Contemporary Brooches

    Materials

    Spinel, Citrine, Mixed Metal, Sterling Silver, Silver, Rhodium, Platinum...

  • Gold Cameo Brooch Pendant
    Located in Paris, FR
    19th century oval brooch-pendant decorated with a cameo depicting a young woman in Renaissance taste. Gold openwork mounts, heightened with pearls. 1...
    Category

    Antique 1860s French Napoleon III Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Gold

Recently Viewed

View All